lokal, be a lokavore
lokal is the kind of place that you want in your neighborhood in 2013. Not only does it capture all the buzz-words of recent foodie culture "local" "gastropub" "craft beers" - I'm a sucker for all these words - but they do it well and honestly, and it all feel authentically Miami in a truly authentic way. It's not just the Frita by Kush, a frita-take with gruyere, guava jelly, potato sticks and bacon (which has a much milder taste than you'd anticipate given that list of high-power ingredients) or the alligator bites (they taste like a chewy chicken nugget caught in the Everglades) but the 'tude.
We know Lokal was going for a Miami-thang, it's clear in their name, in their menu, in their service, but there's something about the way the ethos comes together that makes really, super Miami. It's not so much to do with the dominoes that line the bathroom mirrors, but with the way they didn't finish lining them properly. Don't get me wrong, this is among the better put together of recent restaurants, they nailed the homey-but-thoughtful vibe that a gastropub should have - there's just something so Miami about it all. It's something to do with the name of the place being Lokal, not because it's they source as many ingredients locally as they can (they do) or it's supposed to be a neighborhood spot (it is) but because it's the German word for restaurant and meeting place - like, what? That's so Miami.
There's also something so Coconut Grove about Lokal it makes you, not yearn for the days when the place was full of hippies on motorcycles in Peacock Park, but imagine how the Grove could be now; the epi-center of the craft culture boom. The Grove could hang onto the independent spirit that permeated it for so many decades, that inspired musicians and drove up the land value at the same time with more places like Lokal - where there's a PBR bin on an honor system and a dog menu. That's what the Grove could be about, the blend of high and low, of homey and comfortable and a real neighborhood. It's what Lokal is about.
Lokal has become a regular on my rotation of go-to restaurants. At about $11 a burger, it's not the most frugal choice in town, but it's not unreasonable for a burger, clearly made with high quality ingredients and a side of your choice (fries, sweet potato fries, salad - get the Lokal Vinaigrette - or vegetables). Everything is good. Everything is better than good. Once you've tried a few of the burgers (start with the Lokal move onto the Miami Heat if you can handle it), try the Pink Tacos made with Bang Bang Shrimp, the very addictive Grouper Reuben and the veggie burger. Yes, get the veggie burger at a burger joint. It's a housemade bean and beet patty that will turn even the most blood-loving-burger-craving-carnivore into a Lokal-vore.